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102632 1

The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

AA Notable Wine List 2016 - 2017
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Cooking of stunning intensity in tranquil surroundings

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

The Harrow may look like many another attractive country pub, a foursquare redbrick edifice in a pretty village on the cusp of Wiltshire and Berkshire, and yet nothing about it is in the least ordinary. It's been the labour of love of Roger and Sue Jones for nigh on 20 years, and has benefited from assiduous polishing in every aspect, from the warmth of the welcome to the undisputed quality of what Roger Jones' kitchen puts out. On sunny days, the tables on the terrace are a treat, with the gardens laid out before you and a contented sense of English tranquillity in the air, while the dining rooms themselves are stylishly appointed, with crisply clothed tables and muted colour schemes. The menu drill is multi-course tasters, with five stages at lunch, and a choice of six or eight later on. It's all intensely market-driven and therefore impeccably seasonal, with the day's fresh fish and wild foragings often driving the more remarkable aspects of the production. What is most impressive is the sheer energy there is to the food. Even the most everyday ingredients and their preparations have resonant depth of impact brought out of them, and yet without the extensive denaturing to which many kitchens are given. Take a canapé-sized starter serving of tuna, soft as Turkish Delight and topped with diced niçoise. It's simplicity itself, and yet so sharply etched in three dimensions. Even better is the truffled mushroom risotto that follows. Seasoned eaters-out are hardly new to a portion of finely timed arborio filled with sliced wild mushrooms, scented with Périgord black truffle, and yet – again – the magisterial intensity of it is stunning. Cod too is worth its journey from Orkney when it's this tender and fresh, its light grilling supported by gently spiced chorizo, red pepper and diced black pudding, as well as spring greens and a vivid pea purée. The lengthier dinner menus might hinge on main-course meats such as Northumberland roe deer, the properly developed gamey flavour matched by a bonbon of confit duck and parsnip purée, or fillet, cheek and tail of Highland Shorthorn beef. The signature pre-dessert is the 'boiled egg and soldier', mango mousse set in Italian meringue with a tuile representing the finger of toast, while dessert itself could be a chocoholic's dream vision of cappuccino-frothy mousse in dark and white, a mini-bombe of chocolate and orange, and chocolate-filled coffee sponge. Otherwise, there could be a red berry soufflé, or a twangling composition of lemon, yuzu and passionfruit. Quite as imaginative is the vegetarian version of the main menu, on which, at the heart of proceedings, textural variations of cauliflower precede an Indian-inspired take on tarka dhal with a bhaji.

Opening hours

  • Closed: Christmas and New Year
  • Days closed: Sunday to Tuesday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 3
  • Dinner served from: 7
  • Dinner served until: 11


  • Chef(s): Roger Jones, John Brown

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 250
  • Wines over £30: 750
  • Wines by the glass: 20

Price guide

  • Credit cards accepted


  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Assist dogs welcome


  • Seats: 34
  • Off-site parking available: On street

Additional information

  • Seats: 34

Getting here

Between Marlborough and Hungerford, well signed

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Nearest train station

Bedwyn Station
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