The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef. Reassessment will take place in due course under the new chef. It's hard to keep track, but at the last count the Gordon Ramsay brand extended to 30 or so venues around the globe, taking in 14 addresses in London, a brace apiece for France and Italy, a sprinkling of locations across Asia and the Middle East, and venues across the pond from Las Vegas to Atlantic City. This venue remains the flagship, first opening its doors in 1998. The dining room is surprisingly intimate - just 45 or so seats - with clean-lined, art deco-influenced looks and plush, pastel-hued tones giving a sophisticated sheen to the space. The service, led by Jean-Claude Breton, has long been a stand-out feature of a visit, and it remains gracious and extremely proficient, with his charming manner making every guest feel like a regular visitor. The fixed-price lunch menu represents remarkable value, making it the entry point for anyone looking to sample the RGR experience on a budget (relatively speaking...), while the Prestige and Seasonal Inspiration menus offer the opportunity to go for the high-rolling end of the spectrum. The wallet-denting wine list is a serious piece of work with the world's best producers vying for your attention, and sommelier Jan Konetzki and his team to steer the way.