The Earl of Lovelace did well when he chose the site of his 1887 shooting lodge (some lodge: it's actually a substantial property with a clock tower and turret) at the end of Loch Torridon within 58 acres surrounded by magnificent Highland scenery. Highland cattle roam the fields beside the hotel, chickens and Tamworth pigs are raised on the estate, and fruit and vegetables flourish in the two-acre kitchen garden. Within, Victorian features are overlaid with a classy decor and furnishings, there's an unusual zodiac ceiling in the drawing room, more than 350 whiskies await in the bar, and the restaurant is panelled, with an ornately plastered ceiling and draped windows giving Highland views. David Barnett is doing great things in the kitchen, using top-end Scottish produce in ambitious, well-conceived and technically accurate dishes. His five-course menu might open with wild garlic velouté and proceed to seared scallops with spicy aubergine, cauliflower and mango. Main courses are compellingly devised and short of fuss, so flavours are clear and clean-cut, seen in chicken with a ham crumb, orange and shallots, and fillet of local turbot with mushrooms, parmesan and parsley. Mango cheesecake might be a sweet taster before prunes, honey and oatmeal in whisky parfait, then coffee and petits fours in the drawing room.