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AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Assured cooking in a Scillies hideaway

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass

Bryher is one of the more isolated of the Scillies, a tiny island that can be tramped on foot in not much more than a morning, following a ferry crossing from St Mary's or Tresco. Set amid gentle hillocks laden with gorse and stretching golden sands, Hell Bay is an evocatively misnamed location. The white hotel behind its picket fence looks unassuming enough, but is a beacon of culinary creativity, thanks to Richard Kearsley's assured, confident cooking. Naturally, fish is a big draw, from local mackerel with fennel pannacotta and gribiche, to mains such as the glorious seared turbot in bisque sauce, with balancing accompaniments of charred lettuce and luxurious lobster tortellini, its pasta shell of dim sum tenderness. Supplies can be pretty erratic on a small island, but West Country venison usually makes it here too, for a signature dish of the haunch in chocolate jus with turnip gratin and red cabbage. Finish with well-rendered prune and Armagnac soufflé with a rather shy Earl Grey ice cream, but good walnut and cranberry biscotti, or pineapple Tatin with coconut sorbet. Breakfasters may gather their own eggs if they wish from the chicken coop. Meanwhile, the menu on offer in the Crab Shack next door is simplicity itself - crab, scallops or mussels.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Closed: 2 November to 17 March
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2
  • Dinner served from: 6.45
  • Dinner served until: 9.30

Chef

  • Chef: Richard Kearsley

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 30
  • Wines over £30: 20
  • Wines by the glass: 11

Price guide

  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 70
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 12
  • On-site parking available

Additional information

  • Seats: 70
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 12

Getting here

Access by boat from Penzance, plane from Exeter, Newquay or Land's End

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Nearest train station

Penzance
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