One of the village's oldest buildings, now newly and sympathetically restored, it's got the lot – gnarled old beams, bare floorboards, real fires, scrubbed candlelit tables and three bars and dining areas. And there's more – a garden with tables and parasols, night-time fire pits, twinkling lights and a wood-fired pizza oven. At nearby Plumpton Green is Bedlam, its very own solar-powered brewery, with hops grown on site; another 11 real ales join its Benchmark on the bar. Modern British food comes from the pub's kitchen garden, local farm estates and short-range fishing boats on the coast 20 minutes away. Should you stay here in one of the individually designed bedrooms, breakfast on home-made granola, yoghurt and honey, or push the boat out with a full English. Lunch and dinner menus offer both small plates – rabbit ballotine and black pudding with baby leeks, for instance – and large ones, such as Madras-spiced monkfish, crispy mussels and pilau rice; hay-smoked venison haunch with chervil, chanterelles and kale; ham hock and chicken shortcrust pie; and 'cookhouse classics', perhaps steak, ale and mushroom pie. To finish, those with room to spare could surely manage home-made ice cream; or rhubarb citrus cheesecake, with brown butter and Muscat.