Built by engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel to refresh his team of workers who were building the vast Royal Albert railway bridge that now connects Plymouth to Cornwall, this 17th-century, end-of-terrace local has become a destination dining pub in recent years. At the bar, Dartmoor Jail Ale shares counter space with beers from St Austell and Somerset-made Orchard Pig cider, perhaps accompanied by home-made snacks of black pudding ‘crispies’ or pork and sage Scotch eggs. The restaurant’s achievement of two AA Rosettes acknowledges the passion owner-chef Luke Fearon has for the food, all, it goes without saying, prepared, cooked and presented to a very high standard. The kitchen uses fresh seasonal produce, including locally-caught fish, estate game and village allotment vegetables, for the daily carte and set menus. A typical three-course meal chosen from the carte might start with Cornish crab, green apple, torched celeriac, yogurt and wood sorrel; or pomodoro arancini, aged parmesan and black garlic mayonnaise. To follow, if aged beef fillet, truffle butter, chips, onion rings and peppercorn sauce doesn’t take your fancy then perhaps you’ll be tempted by wild halibut, caramelised cauliflower, Wembury sea herbs and chicken juices. Desserts include brioche bread and butter pudding, crème anglais and hazelnut ice cream, and a showstopping tarte Tatin of caramelised local pears with vanilla ice cream and clotted cream for two people to share. Alternatively, there’s a cheeseboard, on which British and French artisan cheeses are served with home-made chutneys and crackers.