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102632 1

The Harrow at Little Bedwyn

AA Wine Award (England) 2018-19
AA Notable Wine List 2018-19
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Highly polished cooking with the accent on fun

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

Little Bedwyn itself, as its name suggests, tends to the diminutive, a peaceable village on the River Dun not far from Marlborough. Its grandiloquent neighbour, Great Bedwyn, actually retains a railway station, but the junior sibling is a mere slip of a thing distributed among narrow country lanes. On the corner of two of these is to be found Roger and Sue Jones's erstwhile village pub, built of two-tone brick with a little sparse creeper cladding, reborn practically 20 years ago as an ambitious country restaurant. The tone is deeply relaxing in the best country manner, the dining room a white-linened space with high-backed black chairs, framed prints and a giant mirror. Roger Jones has made a name for the place with lustrously polished cooking of exemplary energy, presented with all the novelty and fun of cutting-edge city dining, and maintaining formidable consistency from one season to the next. Multi-course menus are the order of the day, with tasters in six or eight stages, including vegetarian and vegan versions, and a five-course lunch offering. Dishes arrive on wavy glass platters and gutters, in eggcups and Kilner jars, and sometimes even on big white plates, and nothing looks less than thrilling. The quality of prime materials is unimpeachable, as witness a single perfectly succulent scallop that comes with ozoney samphire and pungent wild garlic, while carefully judged Indian spicing points up all the exhilarating richness of deep-fried Pembroke lobster. January king cabbage cooked in ham stock makes an umami-laden accompaniment to Cornish turbot, before the main business of the taster arrives in the form of Périgord-truffled Highland beef with parsnip purée. The signature pre-dessert that still evokes gasps of delight is what looks like a breakfast boiled egg, a meringue-topped intense mango delight with a thick tuile to represent the finger of toast. Dessert itself could be a majestically airborne cherry soufflé, or perhaps an ingenious reimagining of bread-and-butter pudding. If you're on the vegan trail, expect a parade of equally imaginative dishes extending from watermelon 'minestrone', through a Greek spread of houmous, minted cucumber, fennel salad and sweet peppers, to a hotpot of purple potatoes, Puy lentils and wild mushrooms. Wine has always been taken very seriously here, and the pairings with the menus – with the option of upgrading to Coravin servings of the likes of decades-old Mosel Riesling, mature-vine burgundies and aged Napa Cabernet – are reliably spot-on.

Opening hours

  • Closed: Christmas and New Year
  • Days closed: Sunday to Tuesday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 3
  • Dinner served from: 7
  • Dinner served until: 11

Chef

  • Chef(s): Roger Jones, John Brown

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 250
  • Wines over £30: 750
  • Wines by the glass: 40

Price guide

  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 34
  • Off-site parking available: On street

Getting here

Between Marlborough and Hungerford, well signed.

Use the AA Route Planner

Nearest train station

Bedwyn Station
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