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AA rating

About this rating

About the AA Rosette award
Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Thrilling modern dining with bags of style

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge
Credit cards accepted

Not the latest John le Carré adaptation, but a quote from The Wizard of Oz, and a clue that this establishment above Flannels clothes store, brainchild of Michael O'Hare, is as idiosyncratic as they come. The minimalist decorative style is sharply contemporary, and chefs in Cuban-heeled shoes deliver the food to the tables. A 10-course tasting menu is the only way to go (a shorter Menu Rapide is available at lunch), and prepare for an opener served on a serpent-shaped silver spoon - a fabulous 'hand massaged' octopus with caper lemon butter and paprika emulsion. The full armoury of modern cooking techniques comes into play in a menu full of bold ideas within a broadly European spectrum. Galician beef of outstanding quality, 15-years-old, comes in an inspiring course with olive juice and rendered fat, adding a deep and satisfying depth to the finished dish. Sea urchin bolognese is another brilliant idea and a neat visual trick, resembling the Italian classic when a sea urchin sauce is poured on at the table. The excitement continues... black cod with dashi, veal sweetbreads in Chinese XO sauce with hot-and-sour beef consommé, and among sweet courses, a stunning-looking milk chocolate mousse with violet ice cream and warm potato custard (among other things).

Opening hours

  • Closed:: 21 December to 13 January
  • Days closed:: Sunday to Monday
  • Closed for lunch:: Tuesday to Wednesday
  • Lunch served from:: 12.30
  • until : 2
  • Dinner served from:: 6.30
  • until: 8.30


  • Chef: Michael O'Hare

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style:: Modern European
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30:: 18
  • Wines by the glass:: 18

Price guide

  • Tasting menu from £: 60
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted


  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Accessible toilets


  • Seats:: 42

Additional information

  • Seats:: 42

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