The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef. Reassessment will take place in due course under the new chef. The ivy-clad manor house stands in 10 acres of sumptuous grounds, including its own kitchen garden, a little outside Royal Leamington Spa. Through the arched doorway, you will come across a charming mixture of art deco and Lutyensesque styling indoors, attended by supremely professional staff, the main dining room a restful place with wood panelling and floral drapes framing small windows. The full repertoire of multi-course tasters (five or seven), a seasonal carte and daily-changing prix-fixe deals is offered, and the food continues to represent a modern outlook on seasonally based British cooking. A slow-cooked duck egg with mushroom ketchup and crumbled bacony duck skin might open the bidding, or there may be roast cod cheek dressed in sweet-and-sour dill with a crispy cod cracker. Main courses accord the spotlight to pedigree prime materials such as Salisbury Plain fallow deer, served with seed and grain risotto, a parmesan fritter and black garlic, or opalescent wild sea bass, offset with a brandade of smoked eel and braised kombu. Finish with Yorkshire rhubarb variations and whipped egg custard, which comes with the further treat of a piece of ginger cake, or the technical artifice of aerated white chocolate with passionfruit ice cream.