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AA Notable Wine List 2017-18
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Inventive regional cooking and a waterwheel taking centre stage

AA Inspector

At a glance

Open all year
Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Service charge

From the outside, the weatherboarded 18th-century mill looks solid enough to carry on its grinding career today, but a peek inside the doors reveals a seductive modern boutique hotel. Meticulous renovation means its heritage remains intact – the fast-flowing stream that turned its waterwheel is now a thriving wildlife habitat, while the impressive cast-iron wheel that was once its beating heart is atmospherically lit within glass walls to form a diverting centrepiece to the first-floor restaurant. With its framework of exposed beams, bare black tables, gauzy curtain partitions and bucolic views over the millpond, it's a classy setting for chef-patron Lee Bye’s confident cooking, which has plenty of personality in its own right. As a local lad, he’s in touch with his East Anglian roots and has an instinctive feel for combining ingredients from the surrounding region to striking effect, thus a typical opener strikes a balance between no-nonsense gutsiness and contemporary refinement via meltingly tender pig’s cheek matched with hazelnuts, spring onions and a sweet-sour balsamic reduction. Another clever construction might see that old stalwart, chicken liver parfait, transformed by accompaniments of roasted wings, marrow and beetroot ketchup. Cleverly constructed main courses owe their success to intricate detail and careful execution – malt-glazed guinea fowl, say, partnered with salt-baked beets, lovage, rainbow chard and sloe gin sauce, while fish dishes such as roasted halibut with chive beurre blanc, mussels, green fronds of agretti and escabeche sauce are equally well handled. Vegetarians might set about seaweed pommes Anna with king oyster mushrooms, roasted artichoke and wild honey. Desserts are executed with memorable dexterity, bringing entertaining plays of flavour and texture in ideas such as buttermilk pannacotta with poached Cox’s apple, muscovado and crunchy flapjack, or a bitter chocolate pot counterpointed by Morello cherry sorbet and hazelnut oil; for a savoury finish, there are fine British artisanal cheeses with Garibaldi biscuits and chutney. The five-course tasting menu offers a leisurely-paced tour through Bye's versatile repertoire, while some imaginative meat-free ideas should keep vegetarians entertained. If you’re lucky enough to be staying over in order to loosen the belt and make the most of Tuddenham’s excellent wine list, you can expect to get the next day off to a flying start with fortifying breakfasts built around Dingley Dell pork sausages, locally smoked kippers, and Goosnargh yogurt topped with almond granola. If you’re passing by for a pitstop, set lunch menus offer cracking value.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Open all year
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.15
  • Dinner served from: 6.30
  • Dinner served until: 9.15

Chef

  • Chef(s): Lee Bye

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 33
  • Wines over £30: 138
  • Wines by the glass: 13

Price guide

  • Starter from: £7.50
  • Main course from: £19
  • Dessert from: £7.50
  • 2-course lunch from: £20.95
  • 3-course lunch from: £25.95
  • Tasting menu from: £65
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Steps for wheelchair: 18
  • Accessible toilets

Additional information

  • Seats: 54
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 36
  • On-site parking available

Getting here

M11 junction 9 towards Newmarket, then A14 exit junction 38 in Norwich direction. Turn right at Herringswell Road.

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Nearest train station

Newmarket
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Three-course lunch from£25.95**Minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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