The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef. Reassessment will take place in due course under the new chef. With its conical corner turret and handsome gables, this magical, castellated pile of reddish stone wouldn't look out of place in a film adaptation of a Sir Walter Scott novel. Built around a core of sweeping staircases and panelled interiors, Fonab's refurbishment has conjured a contemporary country-house hotel and spa from the place, with glassed-in views over Loch Faskally from both the Brasserie and the upmarket restaurant Sandemans, named in honour of the port-shipping family who once lived here. The chef's culinary style suits the setting with its strikingly modern approach, creating dishes that are full of bold combinations but avoiding flamboyance. A six-course tasting menu, with optional wine matches, offers a wide-ranging tour of Burns' abilities. An appetiser may lead may lead on to ham hock tian, celeriac remoulade, apple, quail egg, caper and a Sandeman's Amontillado gel. Then the main business arrives in the form of a perfectly poached and roasted beef fillet, shoulder-blade beignet, chervil root purée, salsify and fondant potato. You might then move on to a dazzling dessert of Valrhona chocolate tart with salted caramel ice cream and textures of chocolate and coffee.