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117525 1

The Black Swan at Oldstead

AA Notable Wine List 2018-19
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Enterprising tasting menu on a moorland farm

AA Inspector

At a glance

Open all year
Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Credit cards accepted

Down on the farm on the edge of the North York Moors, is where the Banks family calls home. With foraging forays to supplement the growing of fresh produce, it's a very modern enterprise, which is to say it has taken on many of the attributes of the rural life of 200 years ago. There's nothing like a family affair to bring a sense of collaborative cohesion to a place, and while James Banks runs a tight ship out front, his brother Tommy works wonders in the kitchen. It's certainly worth a wander around the kitchen gardens to get a handle on how your dinner will eventually come together, with rare varieties and prime specimens on hand to lend distinction. The tasting menu, which is the standard bill of fare, opens with the customary nibbles, and posts notice of the intent straight away: a sliver of raw Dexter beef, langoustine with salted strawberry, a luscious chicken dumpling. Some sour butter is offered for spreading on the sourdough bread, and then it's into a serving of dry-aged duck leg with onion in Madeira. A scallop cured in rhubarb juice marries sweetness and sourness productively and is followed by the signature beetroot (or 'meatroot', if you prefer), cooked for five hours in beef fat. Cod receives its modern-traditional pairing with cauliflower, prior to more of that dry-aged duck, the breast now adorned with smoked sloe. The concluding stages then arrive in three waves, perhaps centring on blackened apple with rye, with a final savoury of root vegetable panettone.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Open all year
  • Closed for lunch: Sunday to Friday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 1.30
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 8.30

Chef

  • Chef(s): Tommy Banks, Will Lockwood

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 2
  • Wines over £30: 90
  • Wines by the glass: 81

Price guide

  • Tasting menu from: £98
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 50
  • On-site parking available

Getting here

A1 junction 49, A168, A19 south (or from York A19 north), then Coxwold, Byland Abbey, Oldstead.

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Nearest train station

Thirsk
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