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117525 1

The Black Swan at Oldstead

AA Notable Wine List 2016-17
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Exceptional cooking rooted in the surrounding earth

AA Inspector

At a glance

Open all year
Vegetarian menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Credit cards accepted

The old farmstead is very much a family affair, scions of the Banks clan having the place capably in hand. James runs the front-of-house in the dining room, while his brother Tommy is in charge at the stoves. It sits on the edge of the North York Moors, north of York itself, and is at the hub of an industrious farming and foraging operation, supported by terraced kitchen gardens out back, where oca and romanesco are growing. Take a look. Once installed at your table in the understated dining room, you can expect a tour of vanguard cooking, presented with visual dash and utilising much modern technique. The tasting menu is the way to go. From appetiser pairings of smoked eel and apple, or langoustine and caramelised whey, there are interesting tastes all the way. Crapaudine beetroot slowly cooked in beef fat is a tantalising marriage of elements, while beer-fed Dexter beef is scented with some of last year's garlic. Fish dishes maintain the pace too, perhaps teaming monkfish with hen of the woods mushrooms and broccoli, and for afters, it's a matter of dressing sheep's milk yogurt in Douglas fir oil, and filling any remaining gaps with a vegetable cake made from artichoke, chicory root and thyme. This is cooking that springs naturally from the earth in which it is grown. The wine list is innovatively furnished with a kind of cartographic chart orienting the user to the different styles on offer, but the menu has helpful individual suggestions under most dishes too.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Open all year
  • Closed for lunch: Sunday to Friday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 9

Chef

  • Chef: Tommy Banks, Will Lockwood

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 2
  • Wines over £30: 90
  • Wines by the glass: 81

Price guide

  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 50
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 12
  • On-site parking available

Additional information

  • Seats: 50
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 12

Getting here

A1 junction 49, A168, A19 south (or from York A19 north), then Coxwold, Byland Abbey, Oldstead

Use the AA Route Planner

Nearest train station

Thirsk
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