The grand spa hotel on the Wirral peninsula has an unerring sense for an occasion, whether it be one of the landmark days in the calendar or simply a sumptuous afternoon tea in sweet or savoury versions. Head to the Lawns dining room, though, for the full culinary package, where, amid a setting of teardrop chandeliers and ornate wood carvings, Ben Mounsey produces an innovative menu of modern British cuisine. Menu descriptions don't give much away, the better to surprise you when dishes arrive, but clues may be gleaned from cabbage consommé with goats' curd and a scallop to begin, or perhaps salmon with mussel, roast plum and cucumber. Ideas come thick and fast at main courses that might take in pigeon in a cocoa-tinged jus with chanterelles, or gently textured wild sea bass with potted shrimps and artichoke purée in sauce vierge. Desserts that seem to look forward to tomorrow's breakfast are a hit, as when 'rice crispies' of a sort come with milk and banana, while the more exotic chocolate offering is aromatically offset with matcha green tea, prunes and lime. The First Come First Served version of the same menu, offered between 6 and 7pm, will prove a thrifty temptation for early-birders.