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AA Notable Wine List 2017-18
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Virtuoso cooking in artist-designed restaurant

AA Inspector

At a glance

Wines by the glass
Service charge
Credit cards accepted

It’s all change again in the ‘modern European gastro-brasserie’ option at super-cool Sketch. They like to keep the design fresh here, so celebrated Brit artist David Shrigley’s quirky, childlike drawings still fill the walls, but colourful images now take the place of his black-and-white cartoons; the crockery is designed by Shrigley too, so expect a few sardonic messages on the white ceramics to greet last mouthfuls. It all rubs along against a backdrop of designer glam from India Mahdavi in a striking open space that is an explosion of candy pink worthy of a teenage girl’s boudoir, but accessorised with low-slung sponge finger-like barrel chairs and banquettes and clever lighting. As always, service remains a highlight, with charming, clued-up staff positively overflowing with sweetness and light. Not intending to play second fiddle to the happening vibe, well-heeled, beautiful people and wry humour of the art, über-chef Pierre Gagnaire's food doesn't stint on creativity either, with vibrancy, sheer skill and a sense of fun evident throughout. The trademark Asian inspiration is still very much in evidence in an opener that teams pink burrata with lychee, aloe vera, Thai grapefruit, and yellow mango velouté, all beautifully crafted, executed and presented; otherwise, stay in European mode with a highly inventive ‘charcuterie’-themed riff that delivers an assemblage of duck foie gras, Parma ham, honey-roasted ham and sourdough, all leavened with a pungent mustard ice cream. Sophisticated technique, along with an intuitive grasp of flavours also distinguishes main-courses – Scottish fallow deer casserole might get a touch of Asian fusion sparkle via its accompaniment of pickled shiitake mushrooms, along with redcurrant, quince paste and a deftly wrought cube of red cabbage. The same meticulous craftmanship and complex layering of flavours also defines the likes of roasted Basque pork chop with prune paste, bacon and hay-roasted potatoes. The Sketch take on fish and chips could see pollock alongside crunchy French fries, coleslaw, green apple, mushy peas and ‘sketchup’. Desserts are also highly technical workouts: expect fancy-pants creations such as Valrhona Abinao chocolate mousse with pistachio parfait, bitter chocolate leaves, roasted pear and cocoa, and aged rum water. The wine list brims with thoroughbred, wallet-denting treats – in fact, the whole experience doesn’t pander to budget diners, but cherry-pick the menu and you can eat here without the threat of insolvency. Afternoon tea is another treat on offer in The Gallery, with some spectacular cakes and more of Mr Shrigley's tableware providing a talking point.

Opening hours

  • Closed: Christmas and 1 January
  • Closed for lunch: all week
  • Dinner served from: 6.30pm
  • Dinner served until: 11

Chef

  • Chef(s): Pierre Gagnaire, Frederic Don

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern European
  • Vegetarian dishes available
  • Wines under £30: 2
  • Wines over £30: 220
  • Wines by the glass: 40

Price guide

  • Starter from: £12
  • Main course from: £18
  • Dessert from: £6
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 126
  • Off-site parking available: On street, NCP

Getting here

Nearest train station

Oxford Circus, Green Park, Bond Street
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