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AA Notable Wine List 2016-17
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Virtuoso cooking in artist-designed restaurant

AA Inspector

At a glance

Wines by the glass
Service charge
Credit cards accepted

The ‘modern European gastro-brasserie’ option at the super-cool Sketch (where art meets culinary pizzazz) is like no other brasserie you’ve ever been to. Witty, playful cartoons (courtesy of celebrated Brit artist David Shrigley) fill the walls – 239 of them, to be precise – alongside a touch of designer glam from India Mahdavi. It's a striking open space, with a candy pink hue, low-slung funky barrel chairs and banquettes and clever lighting. The crockery is designed by Shrigley too, so expect a few additional wry messages on the white ceramics to greet last mouthfuls. As always, service remains a highlight, with charming, informed staff positively brimming with enthusiasm like it was the opening night. To match the glossy, happening vibe, beautiful people and art, über-chef Pierre Gagnaire's food doesn't hold back on creativity either, with vibrancy, sheer skill and a sense of fun evident throughout. The man's a 'flavoursmith'; take an opener that teams twice-baked haddock and scallop soufflé with sauerkraut, Morteau sausage and juniper beurre blanc, all beautifully crafted, executed and presented, or a ‘Homage to David Shrigley’ that delivers an Asian-accented assemblage of red tuna sashimi partnered with cauliflower and bonito velouté and a cube of soya milk and horseradish, all leavened with the acidity of mango and green apple. Likewise, splendid main-course fillet of Kentish lamb gets a touch of Mediterranean-meets-Asian fusion sparkle via its accompaniment of aubergine caviar with white miso, and cabbage stuffed with sweetbread and medjool dates, while the same meticulous craftmanship and complex layering of flavours also defines a dish of Ibérico pork served with caramelized sweet onion fondue, capers, persimmon, and black pudding and Kirsch ravioli. At the other end of the spectrum, fish cookery can be as classic and unadorned as a fillet of sea-fresh brill with sauce gribiche and new potatoes. There's no lack of creativity when it comes to desserts either, so wallow in extravagant creations such as green matcha tea meringues with coconut milk mousseline and dragon fruit syrup. The wine list is a divertingly spectacular thing, too, with lots of good things available – at a price – in fact, the whole experience doesn’t come cheap, but the menu does contain a few options that won't have you hauled before the bank manager. Afternoon tea is another treat on offer in The Gallery dining room, with some spectacular cakes and more of Mr Shrigley's tableware to help the conversation flow.

Opening hours

  • Closed: Christmas and 1 January
  • Closed for lunch: all week
  • Dinner served from: 6.30pm
  • Dinner served until: 11

Chef

  • Chef: Pierre Gagnaire, Herve Deville

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern European
  • Vegetarian dishes available
  • Wines under £30: 2
  • Wines over £30: 220
  • Wines by the glass: 40

Price guide

  • Starter from 14
  • Main course from18
  • Dessert from6
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 126
  • Off-site parking available: On street, NCP

Additional information

  • Seats: 126

Getting here

Nearest train station

Oxford Circus, Green Park, Bond Street
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