The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef. Reassessment will take place in due course under the new chef. The decor elegantly evokes the natural world in the slate-grey and mossy-green palette, burnished walnut tables, and bleached, skeletal branches soaring up to a stained glass ceiling. There might be a series of delightful little nibbles such as rabbit suspended in pea espuma, or beetroot macaroon with pumpkin seeds. A first course of sea-fresh lobster arrives with the textural contrast of crispy chicken wings, helped by black garlic sauce, anise and hyssop, while Portland crab delivers stunningly clear, simple flavours alongside pickled red dulse and oyster and fennel juice. There's plenty of 'wow' in a main course of 55-day, dry-aged pork - the fillet and belly meat melting in the mouth - with grilled and puréed baby carrots, grilled lettuce, blewit mushrooms, and the subtle pepperiness of nasturtium flowers. Another matches halibut with pine oil, hen of the woods mushrooms, parsnip and chestnuts. For dessert, the acidity of cherries - macerated and sorbet - is tempered by pungent goats' cheese, apricot and pumpernickel. Choose from the carte, a seven-course tasting menu, or the stonking value set lunch, and the experience will linger long in the memory. And wine? The scintillating list has all bases covered with some fascinating bottles.