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AA Restaurant of the Year (London) 2017-18
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

High-flying cooking delivers brilliance at every turn in a relaxed setting

AA Inspector

At a glance

Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

When Phil Howard announced the final service at The Square in 2016, the capital’s gastronomes awaited his next move with bated breath. With his long-running reputation as an A-list chef, he could have taken the cash and gone the empire-building route, but thankfully Howard just can’t stay away from the stoves. And here he is in a discreetly posh Chelsea neighbourhood (in Tom Aikens’s former premises, as it happens) at the helm of a more easy-going, yet still stylish gaff, where he seems truly at home, turning out high-flying cooking that doesn’t aim for the level of complexity achieved at The Square. The setting has an almost Scandinavian allure – bare tables, pale wood floors and curvy, pastel-hued seats – that chimes well with the more relaxed culinary approach, and the mood is of unbuttoned diners just enjoying themselves rather than worshipping at a hushed temple of gastronomy. Howard’s technical abilities are beyond question, and now he has shaken of the fussy shackles of high-end fine dining, the results speak for themselves, and the kitchen delivers brilliance at every turn – witness a starter that packs a large raviolo with an ingenious combo of partridge and pear, and serves it with sprouts, butternut squash, bacon and gamey juices, or another partnering deep-fried and poached mussels with a ‘salad’ of new potatoes, leek hearts, lovage purée and monk’s beard. Next up, precision-timed John Dory fillet with roasted octopus, scorched onions, cep purée, parsley oil and garlic is a delight in conception and delivery, while meat dishes – perhaps loin of fallow deer with mustard fruits, green peppercorns and a tarte fine of celeriac and quince – show off peerless materials and flawless technique. And then there are of course the exquisite desserts – a benchmark lemon tart displaying consummate pastry skills, packed with intense lemon curd and served with lemon sorbet.

Opening hours

  • Closed: Christmas
  • Days closed: 1 January
  • Closed for dinner: 26 December
  • Lunch served from: 12.30
  • Lunch served until: 2.45
  • Dinner served from: 6.30
  • Dinner served until: 10

Chef

  • Chef(s): Philip Howard

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian dishes available
  • Wines under £30: 5
  • Wines over £30: 120
  • Wines by the glass: 13

Price guide

  • Starter from: £15
  • Main course from: £20
  • Dessert from: £12
  • 2-course lunch from: £35
  • 3-course lunch from: £42.50
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 64
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 14
  • Off-site parking available: On street

Additional information

  • Seats: 64
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 14

Getting here

Nearest train station

South Kensington
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Three-course lunch from£42.50**Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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