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AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Ingenious modern dining under bare light bulbs

AA Inspector

At a glance

Tasting menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

A heavy metal door on a nondescript corner of bustling Fitrovia marks the spot of hot-ticket chef Ollie Dabbous’s hard-edged so-now gaff. Big in the cool stakes, its brutalist, utilitarian, dressed-down look side-steps all the old-guard adages to pomp and ceremony and restaurants done up like a bride on her big day. The decor is polished concrete, wire mesh screens, exposed ducting, darkwood and naked light bulbs for the pint-sized street-level dining room, while downstairs, Oskar’s Bar extends the stark theme. By contrast, Dabbous’s highly contemporary cooking is bright, light, fresh and colourful, delivered via a succession of on-cue small plates, spun with seasonal notes and prettily dotted with wild ingredients. Take a garden-to-table fresh opener of ‘peas and mint’ that celebrate the humble pea; from podded peas to shoots, purée and granita, and mint to nasturtium petal decoration. Up next, perhaps the signature, flavour-packed coddled egg filled with smoked butter and earthy toasted mushrooms, served in its open-topped egg shell sat on a fine straw nest. Larger offerings might team cooked-to-a-point roast sea bass served in a tamara broth with prettily dressed courgettes, while desserts might see a lemon, elderflower and crème fraîche tart topped with wild blueberries and marigold shoots. Home-made seeded sourdough bread arrives in a brown paper bag accompanied by whipped salted butter, while global wines step-out with plenty by glass and carafe. Service is equally well-pitched, relaxed and unstuffy but necessarily informed.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 1 week at Easter, 1 week at Christmas
  • Days closed: Sunday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.30
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 9.30

Chef

  • Chef: Ollie Dabbous

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Wines under £30: 10
  • Wines over £30: 110
  • Wines by the glass: 16

Price guide

  • Starter from : 7
  • Main course from: 16
  • Dessert from: 6
  • 3-course lunch from: 36
  • Tasting menu from: 79
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 1
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 36

Additional information

  • Seats: 36

Getting here

Nearest train station

Goodge Street
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Three-course lunch from£36**Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Based on the minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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