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AA Notable Wine List 2016-17
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Anglo-Irish cooking with the homely touch

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge
Credit cards accepted

Richard Corrigan's career in London went into the ascendant at a time when the old plutocratic haute cuisine of the late nouvelle era was giving place to more everyday demotic touches, when humble ingredients were brought to the fore, and the culinary reference-points were to simple, homely domestic cooking of time-hallowed recipes that everyone recognised. Today's version of such impulses may be seen in the widespread resort to wild and foraged ingredients, many of which haven't informed British food since Shakespeare was a lad, but which have brought new depth and savour to the flashiest of modern technical cooking. Corrigan has moved with these times, and impressively so. His setting may these days be a very clubbable address in Mayfair, where sky-blue awnings beckon us into an environment of glittering marble bars, dedicated tables that allow diners to peer into the kitchen, and a principal dining room where chain-linked chandeliers are suspended above burnished floorboards, deeply upholstered seats and linened tables. The impetus of the menus, though, remains very much readily assimilable dishes that are presented with the requisite artistry, but are still informed by big-hearted, accessible flavours. A platter of Carlingford oysters speaks neatly both of home and of Mayfair, or go with the unabashed pungency of smoked haddock soup blobbed with wholegrain mustard, or of smoked eel with hashed black pudding and apple. For main courses, there are robustly handled fish, such as John Dory with its wild garlic, peas and asparagus, or a poached monkfish seasoned with garam masala and coconut, and nor do meat dishes beat about the bush, when suckling pig turns up in three different cuts with onion squash, purple kale and granola, or a majestic hunk of bone-in sirloin has been dry-aged for five and a half weeks before making its way to your plate. Distant Asian notes sound here and there, as for that monkfish, or the squab that is teamed with prawns and seasoned with soy and chilli, but the centre of gravity remains sturdily Anglo-Irish. A classic custard tart is just that, not some deconstructed reboot, but the never-more-popular rhubarb and custard ensemble is allowed a little forgivable foofing in the form of rhubarb crumble soufflé with ginger custard. Staff are knowledgeable and efficient to the nth degree, and there is a list of wines that are admittedly more Mayfair than everyday, but do start out with a list of beauties served in three sizes.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 25 December, Bank holidays
  • Closed for lunch: Saturday
  • Closed for dinner: Sunday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 3
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 10

Chef

  • Chef: Richard Corrigan, Ross Bryans

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: British, Irish
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 50+
  • Wines by the glass: 18

Price guide

  • Starter from 9.25
  • Main course from15.75
  • Dessert from6.50
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 3
  • Accessible toilets

Facilities

  • Seats: 85
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 30
  • Off-site parking available: On street

Additional information

  • Seats: 85
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 30

Getting here

Nearest train station

Marble Arch
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