Modern British cooking in a luxurious Tudor mansion
At a glance
Open all year
Wines by the glass
Credit cards accepted
The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef. Reassessment will take place in due course under the new chef. Although the original house had been pottering along unexceptionably since the 1530s, Ellenborough really hit its stride when the first Earl of that ilk, erstwhile governor general of British India, moved himself and his wife into it 300 years later. The place itself is a sumptuous beauty in Cotswold honey, looking a little like an Oxford college, with a high-glitz panelled dining room, the Beaufort, at the centre of operations. Opening with a salsify and artichoke salad with truffled lentils and crispy cabbage, proceedings roll on with a serving of Coln Valley smoked salmon sharply dressed in capers, gherkins and shallots, with puréed parsley and an egg yolk cooked sous-vide. At main course, there are high-grade meats such as Hereford Cross beef aged for 28 days, or Creedy Carver duck breast with gem lettuce and shimejis, the leg meat fashioned into a cottage pie with smoked potato. Desserts like a baked Alaska made with blood orange, vanilla and poppy seeds could be the harbinger of a final foray into the cheeseboard, accompanied by a jelly of celery, apple and thyme.