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AA Notable Wine List 2017-18
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Celebrating the best that Scotland has to offer

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge

There could be no more fitting venue for a restaurant devoted to celebrating the very best in Scottish gastronomy than a repurposed bonded whisky warehouse. Built of stone in the Leith docklands, it has been Tom Kitchin's address since 2006, and has been for virtually all that time one of the top destinations in the country. The interior still looks a little starker than first-timers may be expecting, low-lit, faintly cavernous, with exposed stone walls and grey-painted brick pillars. It's comfortable enough, but unrepentantly monochrome. That of course is all part of the plan, since the focus is firmly on the distinctiveness of Scottish ingredients, on which topic front-of-house staff are superbly well versed. The ethos is encapsulated in the motto, 'From Nature to Plate', articulated through cooking that lacks nothing in refinement and technical skills, but never forgets that these fine prime materials are what it's about. The short set lunch menu is one way in, delivering a starter such as Orkney scallops baked in the shell and topped with a pastry seal, which is breached at the table to release their aromas, served with pasta-like ribbons of carrot and courgette in a light but precise fish velouté. Next comes roasted loin of Borders roe deer, seasoned with cracked pink peppercorns, the braised haunch incorporated in a cottage pie, alongside extraordinarily concentrated root vegetable mash, with braised apple and an outstanding, classically French red wine sauce. The production closes with a thin-shelled chocolate ganache tart, with bitter orange worked in throughout, in the chocolate, as a purée, diced whole fruit, and a splendid buttermilk ice cream. The principal carte is supplemented by daily seasonal specials, which might run in autumn to Isle of Lewis woodcock in salmis sauce with roasted and puréed pumpkin, while the main menu offers poached Scrabster monkfish with squid ink pasta in a sauce of capers and saffron, or the benchmark hare royale, served with gnocchi and baby turnips. Desserts utilise today's trending flavours to resonant effect, as in the sea buckthorn consommé that comes with orange meringue, set yogurt and Granny Smith sorbet, but the apple and pear crumble soufflé with rich vanilla ice cream remains hard to forgo.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 10–14 April, 31 July to 4 August, 16–20 October, 25 December to 12 January
  • Days closed: Sunday to Monday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.30
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 10

Chef

  • Chef(s): Tom Kitchin

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Scottish, French
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 423
  • Wines by the glass: 38

Price guide

  • 3-course lunch from: £33
  • 3-course dinner from: £75
  • Tasting menu from: £85
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 75
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 20
  • On-site parking available
  • Off-site parking available: On site parking evening only, all day Saturday

Getting here

In Leith, off Commercial Street, opposite Scottish Executive building.

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Nearest train station

Waverley
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Three-course lunch from£33**Minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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