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About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Heartening simplicity at the village inn

AA Inspector

At a glance

Private dining
Wines by the glass
Credit cards accepted

Despite the narrow roads that lead into it on either side, Drewsteignton was once a major staging-post on the coach route from Exeter to Okehampton. A slip of a Dartmoor village to the modern eye, it boasts Duncan Walker's white-fronted 17th-century inn, the transformation of which into a contemporary restaurant-with-rooms has made the place a destination. In a homely, low-ceilinged ambience with striking modern artworks, a menu of assured, classically based cooking offers a wealth of enticement within its modest compass of four choices per course. European notes could be as inimitably French as grilled sole fillets with morels and Madeira, followed by Dexter beef pot-au-feu, but influences from further afield result in a pairing of spiced pork belly and seared scallops to start, with sesame-dressed pak choi. Quality shines forth from a fillet of halibut crusted in lemon and parsley, served with braised celery. Traditionally conceived desserts punch above their weight as in their textbook tarte Tatin, or a billowing apricot soufflé with vanilla ice cream. A compact wine list is impeccably chosen and complements the heartening simplicity of the approach.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 3 weeks in January
  • Days closed: Sunday to Tuesday
  • Closed for lunch: Wednesday to Saturday (except parties 6–10)
  • Dinner served from: 7
  • Dinner served until: 9

Chef

  • Chef(s): Duncan Walker

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: International
  • Wines by the glass: 4

Price guide

  • 2-course dinner from: £48
  • 3-course dinner from: £55
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Steps for wheelchair: 1

Additional information

  • Seats: 16
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 10
  • Off-site parking available: Village square, village car park

Getting here

A30 westbound, exit Cheriton Bishop, Drewsteignton, Castle Drogo, turn left at Crockenwell, follow signs to Drewsteignton. A38 to A382 Bovey Tracey, Mortonhampstead, turn right at Sandy Park, continue past Castle Drogo, follow signs to Drewsteignton.

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Nearest train station

Exeter
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