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AA Notable Wine List 2017-18
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

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Elegant, sharply defined cooking in an isolated Dartmoor setting

AA Inspector

At a glance

Open all year
Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

Sitting in lordly isolation on its bluff above the Teign Valley, Gidleigh nonetheless manages not to feel overly grandiloquent. It still feels like the house it was designed as in the 1920s, albeit one accoutred with oak panelling, fine furnishings and bevies of utterly professional staff. Its trio of adjacent dining rooms is now the preserve of chef Chris Simpson, formerly with Nathan Outlaw in Cornwall, and he has made an instant splash with cooking that has an elegant, sharply delineated style, with carefully articulated flavours and subtle interplay of textures. Veal sweetbread in sourdough crumb with pickled mushrooms works its uncluttered magic as a first course and could be followed by lightly cooked Cornish turbot with broad beans and leeks in a concentrated sauce of celeriac. Otherwise, it may be lemon sole with brown shrimps and kohlrabi, and then Creedy Carver duck breast with chicory and onion tart, beetroot and kale. Great pastry-work also shows up in a silky chocolate tart with salted pistachios, offset with gentle yogurt sorbet. The seven-course tasting menu offers a comprehensive tour of the territory.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Open all year
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2
  • Dinner served from: 6.30
  • Dinner served until: 9

Chef

  • Chef(s): Chris Simpson

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern Classic
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 30
  • Wines over £30: 1000
  • Wines by the glass: 20

Price guide

  • 3-course lunch from: £65
  • 3-course dinner from: £125
  • Tasting menu from: £145
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 1
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 45
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 22
  • On-site parking available

Getting here

From Chagford Square turn right at Lloyds TSB into Mill Street, after 150 yards right fork, across crossroads into Holy Street. Restaurant 1.5 miles.

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Nearest train station

Exeter St Davids
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Three-course lunch from£65**Minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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