The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef. Reassessment will take place in due course under the new chef. The 18th-century manor house stands in the photogenic south-western wilderness that is the Burren, with sweeping distant views towards Galway Bay. If it's more country retreat than castle as such, nobody's counting, as the family-run hospitality is warm and welcoming, and the surrounding country has been an inspiration to many celebrated writers. In an elegantly understated dining room, David Hurley's modern European cooking suits the occasion to a tee. There could be an inventive start in the shape of lamb tartare with celeriac and sheep's milk yogurt, spiced with dukkah and dressed in lovage oil, before the main stage brings on a duo of glazed halibut and smoked eel, supported by purple sprouting broccoli, turnips and peanuts, or maybe loin and shin of venison with roasted onion, confit potato and date purée. The finishing line is reached with such richnesses as dark chocolate truffle cake adorned with passionfruit and coconut, or with a selection from the present generation of pedigree Irish farmhouse cheeses. With the likes of eggs Benedict and organic porridge at breakfast, a stop at Gregans will set you up well for a stout day's walking hereabouts. A nicely varied choice of wines by the glass heads up a list that also covers a lot of ground.