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AA Notable Wine List 2018-19
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Flagship restaurant in a Georgian townhouse

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass

In the centre of this famed foodie town is the flagship of Paul Ainsworth's Cornish flotilla, an imaginatively and elegantly converted Georgian townhouse with three little dining rooms on the ground floor and another upstairs. Striking modern artworks, including a Beth Kerridge sculpture, lend distinction to the spaces, and long-serving staff do their bit to bring a sense of occasion to it all. Many of Ainsworth's dishes, which he tweaks according to season, reflect his researches into British culinary heritage, albeit via impeccably modern techniques. Making a transcendent opening is pig's head fritter, a sumptuous crumbed parcel of brawn and capers, served alongside textured Cox's apple, sweetly roasted onion and a cut of subtly smoked eel. Equally inspirational is Jacob's ragu alla bolognese with seaweed butter and 36-month parmesan. Fish of the day from local waters could well be monkfish roasted on its bone in korma spices, ably supported by the regular accompaniments of white crabmeat on leeks royale with a sliver of crisped fish skin. Another possibility is a chicken version of tournedos Rossini, served in roasting juices with steamed king cabbage. Yet again, you might fancy Bodmin Moor-raised hogget, with red garlic ketchup, sweetbreads and celeriac fricassée. Sheer indulgence characterises a dessert of chocolate mousse and pistachio sponge with warm caramel sauce poured on at the table. If you skip the petits fours you'll miss a little almond cake known as a financier, so moreish it would be easy to consume a dozen of the beauties. The ever-evolving wine list offers the chance to try something from Cornwall's Camel Valley, in addition to a well-represented Europe and then beyond, one way to Canada, the other to New Zealand. Upstairs is Cici's Bar, named after Paul's daughter; there's also been talk of some judicious space remodelling to create a cooking school.

Also at this location

Opening hours

  • Closed: 24–26 December, 13 January to 6 February
  • Days closed: Sunday to Monday (excluding Bank holiday Sunday)
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 2.30
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 9.30

Chef

  • Chef(s): Paul Ainsworth, Chris McClurg

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 87
  • Wines by the glass: 18

Price guide

  • Starter from: £14
  • Main course from £35
  • Dessert from: £14
  • 2-course lunch from: £30
  • 3-course lunch from: £34
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 1
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 46
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 8
  • Off-site parking available: Harbour car park and on street

Getting here

A30 follow signs for Wadebridge then sign to Padstow.

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Nearest train station

Newquay, Bodmin Parkway
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Three-course lunch from£34**Minimum price for a 3-course lunch *Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
*Minimum price for a 3-course lunch
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