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AA Notable Wine List 2016 - 2017
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

Creative and technically impressive cooking with local flavour

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Tasting menu
Private dining
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access
Service charge

Time was when the peaks of gastronomy used to be scaled only in grand hotel dining rooms and country houses. Today, they may just as easily crop up in a modest-looking building on a suburban square, albeit one with its gnarled and beamed roots in the Tudor period. Laurie and Jacqueline Gear have created one of the more exciting outposts of contemporary cuisine here, in no small measure deriving from a formative stint Laurie spent at René Redzepi's Noma in Copenhagen, one of the reference venues of Scandi modernism. The setting has an understated character, for all the depictions of artichokes in relief on the wall panels, the better to illuminate the senses by means of dynamically creative dishes. Individual components counterbalance each other cleverly in ideas such as smoked haddock with radishes and beetroot in horseradish cream, or the symmetrical alignment of roasted scallop and local ham with a pork and shellfish tarragon dressing. Each plate seems to teem with ingredients, as when roasted salsify turns up with golden enoki mushrooms, truffle gel, toasted hazelnut crumbs, sweet cicely and chervil emulsion. Different ethnic notes come and go, for example in a Thai-style coconut curry butter for the roast cod, or lightly spiced couscous for a winter roots dish with toasted pumpkin seeds on the veggie menu. Thoroughbred meats get their moment in the spotlight: Perthshire short rib; breast of locally-farmed duck; cheek, hock and belly of incomparable pork with Morteau sausage, pickled cabbage and apple caramel. Desserts maintain the pace for mandarin and rice pudding soufflé with brazil nut crumble and chocolate sorbet, or the reliably ambrosial Brillat-Savarin cheesecake with Poire Williams sorbet, chervil and granola. French and English artisan cheeses come with delicate hand-made crackers.

Opening hours

  • Closed: 2 weeks at Christmas and April, 2 weeks in August/September
  • Days closed: Sunday to Monday
  • Lunch served from: 12
  • Lunch served until: 3
  • Dinner served from: 6.30
  • Dinner served until: 11

Chef

  • Chef: Laurie Gear, Ben Jenkins

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern European
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines under £30: 5
  • Wines over £30: 246
  • Wines by the glass: 13

Price guide

  • Starter from : 13.50
  • Main course from: 24
  • Dessert from: 6.50
  • Tasting menu from: 38
  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 1
  • Assist dogs welcome

Facilities

  • Seats: 48
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 16
  • Off-site parking available: On street, nearby car park

Additional information

  • Seats: 48
  • Private dining available
  • Private dining seats: 16

Getting here

M40 junction 2. 1 mile from Amersham New Town

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Nearest train station

Amersham
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