Run by Nick and Mary Galer, this creeper-clad 18th-century coaching inn is set in an upmarket village just a hop, step and a jump from the River Thames, with the rolling Berkshire and Oxfordshire countryside beyond. Shiny wooden floors, fat candles on scrubbed tables, log fires and local ales Good Old Boy and Old Hooky characterise the bar, while a restaurant overview must mention its Philippe Starck-influenced design. Menus full of flavour have earned two AA Rosettes but remain keenly priced. Who would quibble with a nibble of proper sausage rolls and brown sauce? A typical fixed-price lunch could comprise whipped Baron Bigod cheese with quince jam and tomato relish, candied hazelnuts and treacle toast; whole roasted local partridge with bacon and shallot potato cake, Brussels tops, Jerusalem artichokes and partridge sauce; followed by Cox apple tart with Calvados crème fraîche. In the evening, look to the carte for a crispy free-range egg with cured salmon, smoked onions and black pudding, with maybe slow-cooked ling with buttered potatoes, parsley purée, mussels and clams for a main course.