Empty plates, diners’ contented smiles and two AA Rosettes testify to the Jack’s well-deserved reputation for upmarket modern British food, but this family-friendly roadside pub also offers good West Country brews on tap. The smart interior with its low beamed rooms, soft brown leather chairs and a wood-burning stove create a contemporary pub atmosphere. In the restaurant, the simple philosophy is to serve the best seasonal Devon produce in stylish surroundings. Local artisan producers underpin chef Matthew Mason’s innovative menus with punchy flavours, be it game from local shoots, or salad leaves and seasonal vegetables from growers just six miles away. A three-course ‘Totally Devon’ selection could start with smoked salmon and prawn roulade with Avruga caviar, cucumber and dill. Next may come breast of Pipers Farm chicken with onion and thyme tart thin, shallot and bacon velouté, and last but not least raspberry and elderflower crème brulée; or Sharpham brie with spiced apple compôte and toasts.