Empty plates, diners’ contented smiles and two AA Rosettes testify to the Jack’s well-deserved reputation for upmarket modern British food, but this family-friendly roadside pub also offers good West Country brews on tap. The smart interior with its low beamed rooms, soft brown leather chairs and a wood-burning stove create a contemporary pub atmosphere. In the restaurant, the simple philosophy is to serve the best seasonal Devon produce in stylish surroundings. Local artisan producers underpin chef Matthew Mason’s innovative menus with punchy flavours, be it game from local shoots, or salad leaves and seasonal vegetables from growers just six miles away. A three-course ‘Totally Devon’ selection could start with game terrine with spiced fruit chutney and toasted brioche. Next may come slow-braised pork belly with honey and roasted butternut squash, and last but not least spiced pumpkin brûlée and stem ginger ice cream; or Sharpham Brie with pickled apples and hazelnut toasts.