The Rosette award for this establishment has been suspended due to a change of chef. Reassessment will take place in due course under the new chef. A stone-built village inn not far from Chipping Norton in the Cotswolds, The Wild Rabbit is the very model of an updated country hostelry. Its stripped-back interior has been given a light makeover, with pale beams and abstract artworks abounding, and Scandinavian-style woodblock furniture at the outdoor tables. A central feature of the dining room is the framed schedule of charges dating from when the place marked a tollgate, and there's an open kitchen to permit views of the team at their creative business. What better than to start with a bouquet of spring vegetables from the kitchen garden, served with a buttermilk and pea-juice cocktail, but the home-made black pudding is hard to resist too, when it comes with Agen prunes, curried pickled onion purée, and a slow-cooked pheasant egg. Main dishes might team monkfish with chicken wings in an emulsion of wild garlic and lovage, or offer rump and fricassée of veal with confit onion, truffle curd and baby capers. This is technically and formally adventurous British food with no holds barred, through to a fragrant dessert of lime buttermilk and matching meringues with minted frozen curd and cucumber granita, or perhaps a simple array of uncommonly intense sorbets – passionfruit, blackberry, pear and more.