The Duke of Devonshire's estate unrolls over an extensive stretch of North Yorkshire, on the edge of the Dales National park, not far from Skipton. The name of the hotel may sound self-deprecatingly pubby, the Devonshire Arms, but best set your faces to ‘stunned’ for the indisputable grandeur of the place. Into this possibly intimidating setting a young new chef, Paul Evans, boldly goes, maintaining the Burlington dining room's stock-in-trade offering of seasonal fixed-price menus founded on the produce of kitchen garden and estate. His dishes are colourful, full of presentational artistry and precisely composed flavours, producing a modern classic pairing of scallops with a chicken wing, alongside puréed and deep-fried artichokes, plentifully sauced with a striking truffled chicken jus. Pork arrives as its now familiar trio – loin, sweet cheek and crisply seared belly – as well as top-drawer vegetable accompaniments of vibrant green cabbage, salsify, chanterelles and parsnip purée. The final flourish is exceptionally light apple cheesecake with a sensationally intense sorbet to match, as well as PX sherry jelly, caramelised pecans and a wodge of honeycomb from the Bolton Abbey hives. Superlative canapés and petits fours bookend the whole experience in imaginative style. Simpler dining is available in the Brasserie, with its roughcast white walls and multi-coloured furnishings.