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Seven Park Place by William Drabble

7-8 Park Place, LONDON, SW1A 1LP

4 rosettes

Snugly ensconced within the St James Hotel and Club, William Drabble's restaurant emerged virtually a generation ago now from what was Aubergine. It's worth emphasising the visual impact of the decor, where gold-coloured seating meets chocolate-brown walls adorned with expansive art nouveau foliage. Sitting in the recess, you might feel you're in the dining car of a luxurious central European railway carriage. Polished service suits the tone, and Drabble's cooking defies its Chelsea address by sourcing produce from northern England and Scotland, fashioning it into dishes that look relatively simple, but are precisely defined. Take a first course of scallop carpaccio topped with sliced Jerusalem artichoke in a truffled emulsion dressing; what could err on the side of blandness in lesser hands has depths of resonant flavour. Alternatively, a griddled red mullet fillet is adorned with goats' cheese and puréed garlic in red wine sauce, while main-course fish might be beautifully seared sea bass with salt-baked celeriac and apple. The game season produces fantastic grouse, the breast roasted on the bone, the offals minced into a potato-topped cake, with plump blackberries adding sweetness and a big booming port jus the foundation. In a world given over to technical innovation, the old skills are all the more gladly appreciated, as when a proudly risen, intensely flavoured passionfruit soufflé is offset by rich dark chocolate sauce. Appetisers, pre-dessert and petits fours add class to the whole occasion, while breads are fairly straightforward. An excellent wine list is as opulent as the surroundings demand.

Further information

Tel: 020 7316 1600
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email

Open/closed

Open all year.
Days closed: Sun-Mon

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern French
Chef: William Drabble
Number of seats: 34
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

2 Course lunch from: £26.50
3 Course lunch from: £31.50
2 Course dinner from: £57.00
3 Course dinner from: £63.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Nearest station: Green Park

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