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AA Notable Wine List 2018-19
AA rating

About this rating

Restaurants are awarded from 1 to 5 Rosettes for culinary excellence. One Rosette restaurants are highly recommended in a local area and five Rosettes have reached the pinnacle of culinary excellence at a world class level.

Read more about AA ratings and awards

A multi-course tasting menu in a clandestine back room

AA Inspector

At a glance

Vegetarian menu
Wines by the glass
Wheelchair access

Plough through the hurly-burly of Bubbledogs, and through a curtain in the corner to what could be a meeting-place for a dissident cell. Sanctums don't come much more inner than this, as a venturesome 20 souls gather around a two-sided counter to watch a multi-course menu of modern concept food being prepared. The dishes, or at least a single-word summary of each, are chalked up on a board; the rest of it you can glean from conversing with the chefs and listening to James Knappett's announcements as each plate is served. This is avant-garderie at its sharpest: even the more recognisable dishes have mysterious flavour elements to them. A sautéed scallop is teriyaki-glazed, served with its dehydrated roe and kombu with a twizzle of pickled cucumber. A carrot is cooked in butter with coriander stems, and Indian-garnished with mango ketchup, peanuts, apple, yogurt and moilee. Other dishes rely on classic combinations, with the flavours turned up to 10 – spring lamb belly in its own jus with mint sauce and golden beetroot, or the delectable caramel ice cream sandwich.

Opening hours

  • Days closed: Sunday to Tuesday
  • Closed for lunch: all week
  • Dinner served from: 6
  • Dinner served until: 11

Chef

  • Chef(s): James Knappett

Food and drink

  • Cuisine style: Modern British
  • Vegetarian menu
  • Wines over £30: 65
  • Wines by the glass: 8

Price guide

  • Service charge
  • Credit cards accepted

Accessibility

  • Wheelchair accessible
  • Steps for wheelchair: 3
  • Accessible toilets
  • Assist dogs welcome

Additional information

  • Seats: 20
  • Off-site parking available: On street

Getting here

Nearest train station

Goodge Street
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