The Grove is a splendid Georgian country-house hotel and spa, set in 300 acres of parkland. Public areas are magnificent, with plenty of period features as well as smart contemporary touches. Colette’s is the fine dining restaurant, located over two rooms in the original house, one with glowing yellow walls, the other blue, both with formal table settings and very well-trained, genuinely friendly and knowledgeable staff. Food is cutting-edge modern British in style with a firm basis in traditional French techniques. Head chef Russell Bateman has worked with some of the greats, and his food is picture-perfect – beautifully presented and precisely conceived. A choice of five- or seven-course tasting menus (including a vegetarian version) are offered in addition to the carte, and you might begin with poached and roasted Galician octopus, with chorizo, olives and rosemary cream sauce, before moving on to braised short rib and fillet of dry-aged Hereford beef, with onion marmalade, potato croquette, spinach and ceps. A perfect baked custard tart comes with poached Yorkshire rhubarb and rhubarb sorbet.