The imposing red-brick manor house is of 17th-century vintage, with an avenue of mature lime trees leading to it. It's that arboreal feature that is referenced in the name of the dignified dining room, where varnished oak panels set with contemporary wall lights, a marble fireplace and simple modern table settings establish the mood. Open-air dining on the terrace will coax the sun-lovers out. A drink in the book-lined Cedar Bar sets the right tone for Andrew Birch's ingredient-focused cooking, served in straightforward, up-to-date dishes that fit the country-house ethos like a glove. An appetiser of densely rich crab mousse with crispy seaweed prepares the palate for a starter such as Orkney scallops with chicken wings, celeriac purée and watercress, strongly scented with truffle. Main could be a tasting plate of Mangalitsa pork cuts, the succulent belly topped with apple and pickled cabbage, with a muted aromatic note from juniper, or sea bass and Ibérico ham with pickled onion, sauced in red wine. A finale such as lemon parfait with meringue in warm griotte cherry sauce is a bold closing statement.