The entrance is on a corner in handsome Georgian Edinburgh, a few steps leading up between large planters to a navy-blue door. If it feels a little like you're here to talk to your bank manager, let all such thought perish as you step into the serenely enveloping slate-blue dining room, where a Cézannesque mountain landscape overlooks the smartly laid-up tables, and a light-fixture like a cluster of golden grapes casts a soft glow over the evening scene. Earlier on, daylight floods through the retracted shutters, and whatever the time, the place is run with the kind of quiet command that inspires confidence. Mark Greenaway has established a presence for himself outside the confines of his self-named restaurant, using today's circuit of television appearances and cookbook publishing to help establish his identity, and ensure that those in search of fine dining in a well-provisioned city will be sure to include him on the itinerary. Greenaway's food is complex in the modern way, technologically driven, but full of natural colour and uplifting flavours too, so that no one element overshadows any other. Whether you choose to go à la carte, or with the eight-course taster, there is astonishment and excellence at every turn. A roast breast and leg of Perthshire quail is accompanied by a structurally perfect Scotched quail egg with accoutrements of beetroot, pistachios and golden raisins, or you might begin with a brace of corpulent scallops in dashi stock, their sweetness counterpointed by salty pork crackling and re-emphasised by soy caramel, the taste categories exhaustively completed by the sharpness of a jelly of rice wine vinegar. Fish and seafood are reliably on point, never more so than in a main of hake fillet with shellfish cannelloni, its clams and cockles bringing a bracing blast of the shoreline, with fennel and dill purée for Force 10 aromatic impact. Duck is from Alloa's Gartmorn Farm and comes as the confit leg with duck-fat chips of unearthly succulence, accompanied by red cabbage and salsify, the traditional fruity note with duck coming from puréed figs, all underpinned by a robust tarragon jus. If you're all about savoury finishes, note that the tip-top artisanal cheeses come with brittle home-made oatcakes, celery and frozen grapes, while for the rest, there may be baked brown sugar cheesecake with tomato caramel, candied ginger and cinnamon ice cream, or perhaps white chocolate sponge laden with yuzu variations – ice cream, curd and gel. Scottish gins and a Shetland vodka are among the temptations of a drinks list built on authoritatively selected wines, opening with a good spread by the standard glass, with smaller measures of finer wines poured by the Coravin system, a handy device that permits the dispensing of wine without pulling the cork.