Mark Greenaway's has been one of the more industrious careers in Scottish gastronomy of the last several years. He is a TV regular to begin with, as well as prolific charity ambassador, a cookbook author and teacher, and still finds time to run the present venue in former bank premises in the stone-built Georgian purlieus of the capital. It remains a rather sober place within, the walls in light blue, punctuated by a backlit steel beam used as shelving. Downstairs, in what was the safe deposit room, is the space for private dining. Greenaway cooks in an exuberant, creative style, mobilising playful, even theatrical flourishes to keep diners fascinated, with the result that dishes never look less than extraordinary, while remaining founded on unimpeachable Scottish produce. An opening course features a smoke-shrouded double-decker arrangement with a herb-buttered cannelloni roll of white Loch Fyne crabmeat on shredded lettuce on the plate above; from beneath it emerges a bowl of smoked cauliflower custard with some of the brown crabmeat and pearls of lemony caviar gel. It's a breathtaking, labour-intensive beginning that is worth all the conceptual effort that has gone into it. A curry-scented celeriac velouté with matching crisps is another triumph of textural contrasts and resonant flavours. At main course, imaginatively treated duck is always a strong bet, the indispensable Gartmorn Farm bird preferred for a serving of the crisp-skinned breast and a complex poppyseed tart, its undulations of pastry filled with diced leg meat, together with aubergine purée, cherry gel and salsify, as well as the crumbled bacony duck skin. The vegetarian proposal may be roast polenta of silky smoothness, offset with goats’ cheese, parsnip and spinach. Viewers with long memories may well recognise the Knot chocolate tart from a 2013 episode of BBC The Great British Menu: it comprises custard jelly, frozen cookies, a stick of crème fraîche parfait, salted caramel and streaks of kumquat purée, arranged around the tightly wound knot of dark chocolate itself, an undoubtedly rich but mightily effective plate. If you're not of the sweet-toothed persuasion, the cheese trio may be ordered with confidence. It comes with lavosh crackers, oatcakes and frozen grapes. Little wonder that the eight-course taster, perhaps centring on a main dish of 11-hour slow-cooked pork belly with pork cheek pie and sweetcorn in toffee apple jus, is a popular recourse. A sterling wine list has been carefully compiled to do justice to the ambitious nature of the food.