It used to break Johnny and Laura Greenall's hearts to drive past the boarded-up, 1850s pub that had once been the hub of their village so, to cut a long story short, they bought it. The plan was to offer classic and modern British fine-dining in the warm, relaxed surroundings of a country pub, with rustic-chic decor, real fires and a spacious garden with views across the Dove Valley, and seamlessly blended classic and contemporary architecture. And that's what they’ve done, which is why it draws a convivial mix of loyal locals and visitors, to enjoy perhaps Marston’s Pedigree, Duncombe Ale, a local guest, or one of the 36 wines by the glass from among the 160 bins. A policy of mixing pub classics with more adventurous modern British dishes leads to corned beef brisket, and honey-glazed ham with poached eggs at lunchtime and, in the evening, roast cod loin, brown shrimp and tenderstem broccoli; beef bourguignon pie; and Jerusalem artichoke with Colston Basset Blue Stilton beignet. Finish with tonka bean parfait, salted caramel and coffee crumble; or warm rice pudding, Armagnac prunes and candied peel.