At this former coaching inn all the original features, artwork, old and new furniture blend seamlessly, and there are four different dining areas, each with a warming open fire lit in the winter months. Food is sourced as locally and seasonally as possible – perhaps start with half a roasted quail with celeriac purée, braised red cabbage and game jus; or tian of white crab, smoked trout and crayfish. Mains include pork, honey and cider sausages; sea bass, cod, lime and ginger fishcakes; or venison and winter root veg stew with wilted spinach and home-made chips. As it’s a free house, expect cask ales from Sharp’s, and Wilkins Farmhouse real cider, together with an ever-changing choice of craft beers. Stylish accommodation is available.