Tucked away in a corner of the town’s rather fine square stands this modernised 19th-century coaching inn. For the last few years it has taken on the role as the brewery tap for proprietor Gavin Meiklejohn’s Tempest Brewing Co. Gavin is married to Annika, Cobbles’ landlady, and his ales – served from keg, cask or bottle – are always perfectly on song in the log fire-warmed bar. The kitchen’s AA Rosette was awarded for its mix of cuisines – British pub classics, Pacific Rim and modern European. For thirsty early evening customers, a bar menu is available: chargrilled sourdough toast loaded with imam bayildi (a Turkish recipe for stuffed aubergine); or smoked Scottish salmon with chive crème fraîche. Small bites include Cullen skink and hand-made ravioli. The restaurant main menu beckons with a Hardiesmill Aberdeen Angus steak cooked to your liking, followed by apple and rhubarb crumble with ice cream.