This 18th-century inn sits in possibly one of the North’s finest dales, and takes its name from the son of Oliver Cromwell’s physician who built it for his workers in what was once a busy lead mining area. In winter, it caters for serious walkers tackling The Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast route, and offers a welcome escape from the rigours of the moors, with many a tale being swapped over pints of Black Sheep Riggwelter or Rudgate’s Jorvik Blonde. The ‘Terrace Room’ features handcrafted tables and chairs from Robert Thompson’s craftsmen in nearby Kilburn, all with Thompson’s unique hand-carved mouse hiding somewhere. English classics meet modern European dishes on a menu written up on the mirror hanging above the stone fireplace: Cogden Hall sirloin steak, field mushroom, tomato and horseradish sauce; loin of venison with home-made game sausage; roast loin of cod, tomato and prawn fondue, and grilled polenta; and artichoke risotto with glazed goats’ cheese and artichoke hearts. The cheeseboard showcases local specialities such as mature and oak-smoked Wensleydale, Mrs Bell’s Blue, Yorkshire Ryedale and Monk’s Folly. Typical Early Bird dishes (third Friday every month) are fish and chips with mushy peas; smoked loin of bacon with poached egg and chips; and vegetable lasagne with garlic bread. The wine list is excellent, with well-written tasting notes. From April to September the local outdoor game of quoits can be played. The bedrooms have fabulous views overlooking the Stang and Arkengarthdale and are finished to a high standard with exposed beams, cast-iron bed frames and warm colours.