Below the North Downs on the ancient Pilgrim’s Way from Winchester to Canterbury, this 18th-century pub is a joy. In the bar, hops hang from ceilings, open log fires blaze, nooks and crannies wait to be discovered, and wing-backed chairs provide welcome comfort. A fine selection of Kentish real ales comes from its four hand-pumps, alongside more widely known brews, and Biddenden cider, while Chapel Down in Tenterden supplies not only wines, but Curious Brew, a lager re-fermented with champagne yeast. A meal in the cosy, candlelit restaurant could be a fish or meat sharing plate; roast beef and Yorkshire pudding; pan-fried calves' liver with bubble-and-squeak; tournedos Rossini with Madeira sauce: slow-roasted belly and stuffed loin of pork with black pudding mash and cider and apple sauce; or a vegetarian option. Specials change daily.