First referred to in 1698, its location halfway up a hill was ideal for waggoners and their horses needing refreshment. Although sympathetically redesigned, its great age remains evident, particularly the big open fireplace that dwarfs its modern wood-burner. If more than a sandwich, bar snack or sharing platter is called for, then maybe confit duck leg cassoulet with creamy mashed potatoes; oven-baked cod with Devon crab risotto; or a salad will do the trick. Theme nights include fish (Mondays), mussels (Tuesdays), tapas, and Greek. Between 5 and 6.30pm on Saturdays buy a starter, main or dessert and get another free.