Arrive at Edinburgh Waverley railway station and head straight here; miss a departing train, ditto – it's so close it would be almost criminal not to. Worthy of study are the bar's magnificent Jacobean-style ceiling, and 10 blue porcelain-handled real ale hand-pumps bearing the Stewart family crest. April and October beer festivals, and monthly brewery weekends underscore their commitment to the products of malted barley. The galleried restaurant offers dishes such as fish chowder; confit duck leg with chorizo and bean cassoulet; double loin lamb chops, smoked bacon with caper and red wine sauce; and 21-day aged, 8oz Tweed Valley rib-eye or sirloin steaks. Burgers and sandwiches are there too. Please note, that however fascinated they might be, under-fives are not allowed in the bar.