Tastefully refurbished by previous owners, Dolton's 17th-century inn is now owned by top French chef Nicolas Boucher from the Vendée and his partner, Vanessa. In their tastefully furnished bar you'll be able to try well-kept real ales and lagers and Nicolas's hand-picked wines, demonstrating ample proof of his passionate interest in the matter. On the menu, spicy Calabrian 'nduja Scotch egg joins a strong modern British cast that also includes grilled John Dory and pollack; pan-fried rack of pistachio- and mustard-crust lamb; and vegetarian pie of the day. To finish with something suitably French, ask for liquorice crème brûlée served with a sablé biscuit. In summer there's a delightful, sun-trap garden area, while wood-burning stoves in winter make lingering in the smartly furnished bar areas a no-brainer.