Surrounded by classic Peak District scenery, this handsome, 18th-century former coaching inn often welcomed Charles Dickens and, so rumour has it, King Edward VII often entertained his mistress, Alice Keppel, here. The original part of the inn is much the same as they would remember it, with low-beamed ceilings, wooden settles, flagstone floors and open fires in winter. Far more 21st century are the floor-to-ceiling windows in the bright, stripey-chaired Brasserie, which overlooks a brook and the village square, while up a few steps in the Malt Vault is the ‘big table’, ideal for family get-togethers. Among chef-patron Alan Hill’s modern British dishes are harissa-glazed Scottish salmon; Chatsworth Estate venison haunch bourguignon; and parsnip and winter squash tarte Tatin. Alan makes good use of local produce, including game, while his Barter Board offers estate-brewed and other local beers in exchange for villagers' home-grown produce.