Y Polyn is a former tollhouse, now well established as a destination pub for lovers of Welsh food, and handily placed for the attractive county town of Carmarthen and the National Botanic Garden of Wales. The first-floor has been converted to create private dining rooms, ideal for family gatherings and parties. The bounty of West Wales is at the forefront of the uncomplicated, tempting dishes that come from the modest kitchen here, and ‘Fat equals Flavour. Live with it’ is the unapologetic ethos. Starters include the famous Y Polyn fish soup with gruyère, rouille and croûtons; and venison ragù, pappardelle, pangritata and parmesan; follow that with roast rump of Welsh lamb, spiced lamb and potato terrine, and yogurt harissa, maybe, or crispy pork belly, braised chicory, roast cauliflower purée and pickled red cabbage. The Black Forest gâteau knickerbocker glory is a winner, or there’s white chocolate cheesecake with roast plums. All this has gained the inn two AA Rosettes for its accomplished cooking. The excellent beers come from the local Handmade Brewery.