The Metropole

This grand Victorian hotel is something of a Padstow landmark. It's perched on a hill high above town with splendid views across the estuary and of the fishing boats going to and fro in the harbour. A table by the window is much coveted in the spacious and airy Harbour Restaurant. Clothed tables are presided over by engaging staff. Padstow has an embarrassment of riches on its doorstep, including of course fresh fish landed a few yards from the kitchen and the young, ambitious chef delivers some assured cooking with a refreshing directness to it. Ham hock terrine with English mustard could precede baked fillet of pollock with smoked haddock and leek risotto and a crispy poached egg. A light touch is evident in rhubarb four ways - open cheesecake, cobbler, ripple ice cream and poached.