There's a buzzy panelled bar on the ground floor (with a varied menu taking in glazed pig's head with apple sauce and crackling as well as fishcakes and sausages and mash), but head up to the first-floor restaurant for the full works. It's a bright room with a mirrored ceiling, boarded floor, leather-look seating and zippy, clued-up staff. The kitchen delivers attractively arranged dishes of clean, often strong flavours, from starters of veal rump with beetroot and pickled carrot, or grilled red mullet with brandade and pipérade, to mains of pan-fried fillet of bream with shrimp and tarragon tortellini and sautéed frogs' legs, or rump of mutton with mushrooms and fondant potatoes.