North Bridge Brasserie

North Bridge Brasserie is a triumphant conversion of the old Scotsman newspaper offices, housed in what was the reception hall and retaining all the impressive original features of marble pillars, intricate cornicing, panelling and a balcony with tables and chairs. The kitchen's pride in Scotland's produce is evident from the menu, which may open with maple-cured Pitlochry pigeon with a piquant salad of pickled mushrooms and carrot, or citrus-cured Scottish salmon fashionably partnered by beetroot textures, horseradish and rocket arancini. High levels of skill and innovation continue into main courses, accompanying roast squid with crisp smoked mussel fritters, chorizo, black tagliatelle and lemon yoghurt, for instance, and serving slow-cooked Borders lamb shank with basil mousse, goats' cheese, bean cassoulet and curly kale. A fine selection of Scottish artisan cheeses with chutney and oatcakes is an alternative to something sweeter like dark chocolate pithivier with crème fraîche.