Bartley Lodge Hotel

Part of the small family of New Forest Hotels, Bartley Lodge conforms to the group's format of country retreats tucked away in the forested tracts of Hampshire. A long drive meanders through landscaped grounds to the door of the 18th-century hunting lodge, which has been extensively made-over and spruced-up in recent years whilst leaving its ample period character intact. Housed in the original library, the Crystal Restaurant (named presumably after the elegant centrepiece chandelier) is a spacious, high-ceilinged room done out in Wedgwood blue and gold - a setting that sits well with the repertoire of straightforward country-house cooking. Duck liver parfait with red onion marmalade is a trusty starter, while main course delivers lamb two ways - rare roasted and slow-braised - served with dauphinoise potatoes and red cabbage. At dessert, a classic vanilla crème brûlée comes with lavender and crab apple jelly and lime shortbread.