Boat Hotel

In such a traditional-looking Scottish country hotel in the heart of the Cairngorms, you might be forgiven for expecting the full-monty formal approach to dining. But its panelled Boat Bistro has moved with the times and gone all refreshingly unbuttoned and chilled, with unclothed wooden tables, tealights and relaxed service. Quality local and seasonal produce underpins the kitchen's well-presented modernised bistro repertoire; think hand-dived scallops teamed with butternut squash purée and crispy pancetta, or loin of Speyside venison with skirlie potato cake, Chantenay carrots and juniper jus. To finish, go for saffron and orange frangipane tart with vanilla ice cream or fresh raspberry cranachan pepped-up with toasted oatmeal and whisky cream. (Lighter options - classic Caesar salad to fish and chips - are available in the adjoining bar.)